Ferrets


Ferrets in the United States today are usually raised for personal pets; however, this is not the historical use of this lively and curious creature.  Domesticated more than 2,000 years ago from the European polecat the common ferret has been used for hunting rabbits in Britain for centuries.  This small creature is still used today for hunting and showing and to a lesser extent for fur ranching as they are far more docile then their relative the mink.  Ferrets have a reputation of unpredictability; however, this is often unwarranted, and they make wonderful companions when properly raised and handled.

Facts Chart

HOUSING:
Any secure cage with a mesh size of approximately 1" X 2" (maximum) for adult ferrets.
Floor Size: 3ft X 2ft X 2ft is adequate, more is better
Nest or Hiding area of 25% of the cage
Larger exercise area available
Emphasis should be placed on secure construction, as ferrets are resourceful
Acceptable bedding materials are straw and wood shavings
Ferrets may be housed in groups if the cage is of adequate size. They get along very well especially when all parties are reproductively fixed.

FEED:
Ferrets are true carnivores (meat eaters) and can eat any high quality cat food.  It should have 30% protein and a high percent fat (~30%).  Commercial ferret diets are available, but unless raised on that diet from weaning, most ferrets will not eat them.  Always have fresh water available.

HANDLING:
When handled often, ferrets are very tame and easily picked up.  Support the body completely as you lift them, or they will squirm.
Young ferrets may try to nip you.  If this is the case, wear gloves when handling them and do not pull away when they nip.  If you do pull away, then they have learned how to keep from doing what you want, and they will continue to bite.  A few days of gloved hands will protect your fingers and quickly teach your ferret not to bite as it does it no good.

CHOOSING A FERRET:
When choosing a ferret for a pet you should always analyze the animal's personality and health.  You should look for a ferret that is friendly and does not seem to be too nervous around people.  Understand that this animal has never seen you before and will understandably be a bit concerned by your presence until it gets used to your smell.
The ferret that you pick should also appear healthy. It should be bright eyed and alert.  There should not be patches of missing skin or fur on its body. The animal should breath easily with no nasal discharge.  You should always buy from a reputable retailer or breeder.  The person selling the animal should be able to tell you it's past health history as well as the history of the animals living with and around it.  He should also be willing to guarantee that it is healthy.  If you plan to breed your ferrets, you should also ask about genetic defects in parents or litter mates as well as being sure that the male and female that you have picked out are not related.

Reproduction Notes
You should also check to see if your chosen ferret has been fixed (spayed or neutered).  ALL pet female ferrets should be spayed as early as possible because a female ferrets will not go out of heat until bred and depleted bone marrow will result from the prolonged bleeding.  This will eventually kill the jill (female ferret).  Most of these surgeries are completed before the sale of female ferrets to prevent future problems.  Unfixed male ferrets have a strong odor upon reaching sexual maturity.
Young are born underdeveloped and are nearly impossible to hand raise prior to 1 week old.  Disturbances during this initial week may cause cannibalism in some jills.

Veterinary Visits
Ferrets, when young, should be seen yearly for exams and vaccines.  A fecal exam should also be performed.  Ferrets tend to have few problems until they reach three or four years of age when problems are common.  Ferrets are considered geriatric at this age.  Common conditions include hormonal imbalances, blood sugar problems and tumors. It is recommended that an older ferret be seen more frequently.

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